It's Time to Go

It is customary that those who travel with us to write in our log book for one or more of the days aboard. We thought Mum’s (Wendy’s) last entry (a poem) summarized the last few weeks aboard admirably. Also, thanks to Barbara we can now share some underwater scenes.

It’s Time to Go

Our time is done and we’ve had fun

We’ve had blue skies and lots of sun
Narama sailed like a dream
The wind sometimes just off her beam
As she lifted her bows into the sea
We relished the feeling of being so free
We’ve snorkeled and swum and hiked some too

And even kayaked into the blue

Amazing sites that we have seen

From gulls to vultures and pelicans that preen

Then in the water many fishes abound

In every colour they pass without sound

Sea lions and dolphins came to see us

But seeing the blue whales caused excitement plus

Each of our hikes produced wildlife to share

There were donkeys and goats and a big black hare

Lizards, rabbits and squirrels were terribly shy

And a coyote crept so silently by

We saw many cacti in every spare patch

The variety was such that we couldn’t match

Waiting to nab anything in their way

It’s all survival for them I dare say

Now we must both bid our fondest farewell

Thank you! Our time here has really been swell

You’ve fed us so well and looked after us

And even caught a great big fish without fuss

I wonder just where we will all meet up next

You’ll just have to wait to read the next text.

Message from Antarctica

Click the link below for a short film from Heidi in Antarctica.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrRnxqP5ZVU

Update from Antarctica

I have been away from Narama for only three weeks and already it’s hard for me to recollect the heat of the sun and the desert landscape. I’ve just completed my first of three voyages which took me to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia and then to the Antarctic Peninsula itself. Crossing Drake Passage over the last few days was interesting, with force 10 winds (about 50 knots) and average seas over 10m. But it was worth it, especially to see South Georgia again where the weather was kind allowing visits to massive King Penguin colonies and Wandering Albatross nesting sites. Another special treat during this voyage was running into a dear friend from Alert Bay in Stanley (Falklands). Have a look at Hayley’s blog (link on the side “Oceanmaid Ventures”) she is currently attempting to kayak around South Georgia alone. I just hope that she gets the weather she needs!

There are two trips left for me this season, although they are much shorter and only visit the Peninsula. Here’s hoping that the last four crossings of Drake Passage will be gentle.

I think that penguins are the secret to world peace as no one can resist smiling at their antics.

Photos:  Heidi in St Andrews Bay, MS Expedition in Antarctic Sound, Antctic Fur Seals, Chinstrap Penguins

Whales in La Paz

Whilst Heidi is hard at work watching the real thing in frigid waters of the Southern Ocean, Stephen has found a local museum full of whale curios and who were only too happy to let me play with skeletons that still needed cleaning. See http://museodelaballena.blogspot.com/ . I also continue with boat projects that we started before Heidi took off. Varnishing, polishing, sewing(kayak cover and spinnaker), engine maintenance, resealing toe rails, making rat lines, strops to lift dinghy, painting………. And so it goes on. Carnival has just ended what a spectacle it was and the dozens of competing musicians have abated and sleep returned. At least until fish knocking the hull in the wee hours of a morning to get at the growing wildlife forced me into action and take the boat out to a nice secluded bay to destroy this thriving under water ecosystem, emerging from the water covered in what I am sure was now pissed off tiny crustaceans. Had fun taking the whale museum folks for trip out into La Paz Bay, we were fortunate to find 5 humpbacks and had a sail, something a little different for them. And finally the boat is slowly sinking again under the weight of victuals that are slowly accrued by back pack on each outing ashore. The guys in the hardware store are starting to make fun of me as I empty there shelves of “Alcohol Industrial” for use in our stove. I real don’t think they believe me. As I write another 25kn northerly is howling through the anchorage. They seem to come through a couple of days of each week and make for some damp rowing conditions in wind against tide.

Where have we been????

As an overview of of our travels here's a few schematics with as many locations or noon positions as Google Earth could fit in. I think most are there in the larger scale pics.

Sketchbook from Sea of Cortez

Looking back through my journal of the last two months I feel incredibly fortunate. For the friends that joined us, for the wildlife we’ve encountered and for the friends that we’ve made along the way. Even with all this richness I am drawn to the far south. And so I’m leaving Stephen in charge of Narama while I fly to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego to board a ship and sail to Antarctica. I’ll be working as a wildlife guide, giving lectures on seabird ecology and spending every moment I can on deck, looking at the all rich wildlife and ice-filled scenery! Stephen will be enjoying the warmth and hospitality of Mexico and sharing it with his parents who are coming to visit. I’ll join them all again in a few weeks, but first to the penguins and ice!

Swimming with Whale Sharks!

“Ready? Jump!”
With just the two of us onboard we had to get the routine down. One would steer alongside (about 20m away) a whale shark, the other would be waiting with mask and fins then leap off the side of the boat and start swimming. The sunlight dappling on the light-coloured spots on the dark body had a mesmerizing effect. Or perhaps it was the sheer size! The largest we estimated to be 6-8m (easy comparison since it was over half a boat length). The crescent-shaped tail looked underwater to be over a meter tall. The first time you swim toward one of these beautiful giants your heart seems to skip a beat and you have to consciously remind yourself that they only eat plankton and small fish. Then you have to concentrate on swimming and you realize this fish seems to be travelling fast without actively moving its body. There’s a lot of other small fish and Remora along for the ride. To see this animal in its element was an experience of a lifetime!


Stephen swimming alongside a Whale Shark.